The Risks of Being Social

Unknown-1A social dog is one that is comfortable in new situations, with a variety of other dogs, people and things. Having a social dog means that you are able to take them with you anywhere that dogs are allowed to go, without any drama. Socialized dogs don’t bark excessively, lunge or misbehave. They aren’t skittish or anxious, they adjust quickly to new situations and relax.

I have had lived with under-socialized dogs that required management and special care and I have had the privilege of owning social dogs that were easy going, friendly and confident. These dogs are a joy to live with everyday and I can include them in almost every aspect of my life. I would want it no other way.

Getting to ‘social’ requires effort. You must get your dog out and about for positive experiences with a variety of new things, places, sights, sounds, people, dogs and other animals from an early age. Then, you must continue this adventure you are both on, well-beyond their adolescence (i.e., two years). The benefits will pay off when you are enjoying the companionship of your best buddy and showing him off to boot. I love hiking with my dogs in the woods, taking them swimming in lakes, watching them play with friends and form new friendships. We enjoy going to the beach where children want to pet them and other dogs are curious. Thankfully, we sail through these encounters with nothing but pleasant memories.

The Risks

This type of socialization comes with some risks however. Hiking in the woods can result in getting a tick or two. There are tick preventatives of course, but as everyone knows, they don’t always work and Lyme disease vaccinations are only approximately 75% effective in preventing disease. Swimming in lakes can be problematic for ear and skin infections, hot spots, or ingested toxins. Going to dog parks can result in injuries. Walking your dog on the street can increase the likelihood of contracting parasites. Chewing on bones can cause broken teeth. Visiting Petsmart or even the Vet’s office can expose your dog to illnesses, like Kennel Cough, Ringworm, and Canine Papilloma Virus. A well-managed day care, the ultimate in social interaction for your dog, is no different.

What We Do

At Coventry Day Camp, we are proud of the social dogs that we have helped to nurture over the years. We provide a safe environment for the dogs to play and supervise and guide  them to help them learn good social skills. But, no matter how safe we try to make things (i.e., rubber mats, rounded equipment, gates that open in, etc.), injuries can still occur. A jubilant adolescent who is happily being chased and running at breakneck speed, doesn’t see that 10 ft. piece of play equipment in front of him and WHAM! A scrape or sprain occurs! Have you heard the saying, ‘its all fun and games until someone ends up in a cone’? We screen all day camp applicants to ensure that they are friendly and good with dogs, but even under the best circumstances, with the friendliest of dogs, arguments occur.

The same is true for some illnesses. We require vaccinations of all dogs and check them regularly. Some would say that we can even be a bit nagging about keeping them current. We don’t allow dogs that have been recently adopted to even enter the building for a day camp evaluation until they have been known to be clear of diseases for a minimum of two weeks. We scrub the walls, floors, crates and equipment daily with the same disinfectant products used by Vets. But still, dogs can catch airborne diseases.

What You Can Do 

Choosing to have your dog attend day camp to enhance his sociability is the perfect option for people who love dogs but have limited time due to their work schedules. Knowing the risks, what you choose to do will depend on what you want for your dog’s life with you. There are as many responses as there are owners. Some owners may decide to err on the side of caution and eliminate risks by limiting their dog’s activities to the back yard with little or no contact with the outside world. Others may choose to accept some risk while avoiding others. Some opt to accept the risks while doing their best to minimize whatever risks are within their control. At the end of the day, you get a tired, satisfied, socially active dog.

With some proactive steps on your part, you can minimize illness risk. Vaccinations are an important first step but not the only answer. Bordatella is the vaccination for kennel cough, the doggie equivalent of a cold. However, like human flu vaccines it isn’t effective against every strain and despite being immunized the dog can still get the virus. Additionally, there is no vaccination for Canine Papilloma Virus more commonly known as oral warts. The best alternative is to keep your dog healthy by supporting his immune system with natural dietary supplements. Like an ‘apple a day’ keeps the Doctor away,’ some additions to your dog’s meal might keep illnesses away too.

Here is a list of some suggested supplements to give your dogs that can keep them healthier and enjoying a full social life at the same time!

Salmon Oil – (Grizzly Oil or Nordic Naturals)

Aunt Jenis All Systems Go

Animal Essentials-Herbal Multi-Vitamin

Wholistic Pet –Canine Complete

Herbsmith Support Immunity


Missing Link


Fireworks and Frantic Fidos




It is almost the 4th of July and the fireworks are about to begin! This is a time for great excitement and family fun! Unfortunately, it can also be utterly terrifying for your dog.

The loud sounds that fireworks make, along with the bright flashes of light, are foreign to your dog. They have no idea what these things are; I imagine that they probably perceive them as some sort of cataclysmic natural event.

A scared dog, or any animal for that matter, can run blindly from the thing that frightens them. After the 4th of July, shelters are inundated with dogs that have fled their yards, homes and slipped their collars because of the fear that fireworks instill. The lucky ones end up in the shelter, some dogs never make it that far.

While fireworks seem pretty commonplace to us, this kind of experience is traumatic for the dog and result in increased fear at the next event. Worse, it can generalize to other sounds, like thunder and even big trucks.

The best solution is to prevent a problem from occurring. Here are some tips to help minimize the stress for your dog:

  1. Keep your dog sheltered inside the house. Even a fenced yard won’t be able to contain a completely terrified dog.
  2. Don’t try to ‘socialize’ him to fireworks by taking him to the event. He doesn’t want to see them, trust me.
  3. Close the shades, curtains or blinds to minimize the flashes and burst of light. You can even opt for the basement if you have one.
  4. Turn on air conditioning, music or the television to try and muffle the sounds.
  5. Have a doggie party! Remember all those left over BBQ hot dogs and burgers? Cut them up and celebrate the 4th with your dog by tossing around the bits for him to find.  This is also a good time for the yummiest Kong ever!
  6. Check to ensure that your pet’s identification tags are on their collar and up to date, just in case.

If your dog is already afraid of loud sounds, you can help them through it by using a “Thundershirt”. This pressure garment can help dogs relax. It is available everywhere. You can also use Comfort Zone D.A.P. This diffuser contains a synthetically produced pheromone that mimics the one secreted by lactating females.

If despite your best efforts, your dog becomes afraid, by all means, comfort them. Too many ill-informed sources advise that “babying” your dog will ‘reinforce their fear’. That couldn’t be further from the truth. You can not reinforce an emotion the same way you reinforce a behavior. You can however, help change their emotional state by giving them or doing things that they enjoy. Here is a link to a very fine explanation of this by Patricia McConnell:

Good luck and enjoy the summer!!!


Mounting: What is it and why?

This past week I was asked about mounting behavior (i.e., ’humping’) and why it occurs. Since this is a frequent question, I thought that a blog about it might be a good idea.

This is the one behavior that seems to really freak people out. Most people erroneously attribute it to dominance. It is important to remember that dominance is NOT a personality trait. It is a term used to describe the outcome of a confrontation over a desired resource. The one that walks away with the resource, is dominant, in that moment. The next confrontation may have an entirely different result.

So let’s get to it, dogs mount for several reasons:

1. Excitement – anything that excites your dog can elicit mounting behavior. A favorite person arriving, the potential for a game or even their favorite snack may cause a mounting session.

2. Play – Dogs mount to entice another dog to interact with them. Occasionally, when two dogs are playing, a third will try to get in on it by mounting one of the players. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.

3. Stress/anxiety relief – Some dogs aren’t sure what to do in certain social situations or are so nervous they resort to a comforting behavior, think of nail biting.

4. Social behavior – Dogs sometimes use mounting as a means of controlling another dog.

5. Sex – Yes, sometimes, it is about sex.

Mounting is not an exclusively male behavior. Females often engage in the activity as well. Additionally, the behavior is often directed at members of the same sex. When used in the context of play, excitement or anxiety, the sex of the “mountee” is not important.

So is it ok if they are mounting? The answer lies in the other dog. Does the other dog mind? In other words, are they growling or snapping or trying to get away? Do they turn to play and then take turns mounting? If it happens occasionally during a play session or once in awhile when your dog is very excited, it is no big deal. If it is your dog’s only behavior upon meeting other dogs or people, then you may want to determine what about the situation is either overstimulating or scary.

Will neutering stop mounting? Unfortunately, no. Some of the most dedicated mounters are neutered. There is no scientific evidence to support that neutering will change mounting behavior. If you would like to read more about mounting (and dominance) check out the link below:

Dominance and the Pet Dog

Dominance in the pet dog has become a common topic of discussion in just about every training session I conduct. Nervous and fearful owners confide in me “My dog is dominant” and then they timidly ask: “How do I dominate my dog?”. The more confident few even ask: “How do I teach my dog that my child is dominant?”.

Over the years I have heard just about every behavior you can think of attributed to dominance. From unruly behavior like jumping up on people or eating poop, to mounting, dominance is thought to be the root of all bad behavior. Just Google dominance in dogs and you will find a treasure trove of misguided information on the subject. I found one site that listed 28 behaviors that were attributed to dominance. The most disturbing reference I saw was on a popular TV dog training program. The trainer was working with a dog who obsessively chased a laser light. His explanation? The dog was trying to dominate the light!

Unfortunately, these ‘explanations’ are offered to the general public by animal professionals who should know better. Most of this I believe, is that the use of the word dominance, although misconstrued, has been in use for so long, people take it as fact. They have not taken the time to fully research canine behavior and as a result continue to perpetuate false and potentially harmful information.

Dominance is a broad term that has many vague definitions, as you will find out if you research it. Biologists, Ethologists and Animal Behaviorists however, refer to dominance as a competitive series of encounters, that use force, intimidation or aggression to gain access to a priority resource (food, space, opposite sex). Through these series of encounters, the individual who triumphs most frequently can be considered dominant at that time. However, that role can change quickly depending on the fitness level or motivation of the individuals involved. It is not a constant state. In reality, the outcomes will vary greatly over time.

It is important to point out that dominance is not a personality trait. It is instead, the attribute of a relationship. When someone is told that their dog is dominant, an adversarial relationship is immediately formed. In response the owner attempts to control the dog with physical force or intimidation.

Equally important is that aggression does not equal dominance. Although dominance aggression, where the dog challenges his owners over resources, does exist, it is in fact, extremely rare. Most behavior cases have nothing at all to do with dominance and the dogs that are frequently labeled as dominant, are reacting out of fear. Dogs that are afraid will act defensive in an attempt to try and scare a potential threat away. It is not hard to recognize that major problems will arise when a fearful animal is treated like a dominant one. Using forceful methods to make him ‘submit’ will only make fear-based behaviors worse. This is the saddest fact and the one that troubles me most.
Dogs that are unruly, misbehave or are unmanageable are not trying to dominate their owners by attempting to control a situation, they are simply untrained. You needn’t walk out of the door before your dog to prove that you are ‘dominant’. However, teaching your dog to wait at the door until released will make life more pleasant for both of you, not to mention safer. Many of the behaviors that are commonly attributed to ‘dominance’ are normal dog behaviors that have been inadvertently reinforced by well-meaning humans.

The issue is of such importance that The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior issued a position statement on the use of dominance theory for behavior modification of animals. They emphasize that Veterinarians specializing in behavior should not use dominance theory as a general guide for behavior modification. Additionally, they recommend that Veterinarians “refer clients only to trainers and behavior consultants who understand the principles of learning theory and who focus on reinforcing desirable behaviors and removing the reinforcement for undesirable behaviors.”

The truth, for all the dog owners who want to ask about dominance, is that you don’t have to dominate your dog. Dogs don’t know what humans think is acceptable behavior. Only through training can dogs learn what behaviors are acceptable or unacceptable. Dogs do need consistent and clear rules, mental stimulation and physical exercise to be able to learn well and adapt to a human world. All this is accomplished by being an effective teacher for your dog. Teachers can choose to use force and intimidation or motivation and reward. By using positive reinforcement methods, you will avoid the pitfalls of force-based techniques and build a bond that will last a lifetime with your dog.

So, what’s in a name?

One of the more interesting things I’ve noticed over the years in training dogs is how the names of dogs have changed. I remember when dogs used to be named Buddy and Bowser, Rex and Rover or even names that focused on their appearance like Rags and Patches. In the last 10 years however, there has been a shift away from those traditional names. Now my class roster is full of names like Chloe, Abby, Allison, Oliver, Harry, and Charlie! And those aren’t the owner’s names either!

This is a wonderful trend and one that I think can be attributed to the fact the people are considering dogs as members of the family. Things can only improve for dogs as their status changes from family ‘pet’, to ‘family’.

Whatever you name your dog, there are a few things to consider. First and foremost your dog’s name should always mean that you need their attention. Just like when we call out to our human friends, the polite response should be a turn to look and make eye contact. A name simply means, ‘I need your attention’. It doesn’t mean ‘come’. In fact, using it to mean come can actually be dangerous. Imagine your dog has gotten away from you. You see him across the street and say his name. He hears it and dashes across the street! Yikes! If the name just means look at me, he will look up and then you can ask for a ‘sit’ or even a ‘down’ to keep him in place until you can reach him.

Your dog’s name should always have a positive connotation. As humans, we tend to use dog’s names when we are exasperated with their behavior. ‘Jake! Get your head out of the trash!’. After a few of these, your dog will start to cringe when you call his name and even stop responding altogether. That won’t be helpful when you want him to do something you ask. Instead, say his name sweetly and when he makes eye contact, follow it up with something he really likes, a toss of his favorite toy, a trip to the cookie jar, a belly rub or some sweet talk.

It is important to remember not to overuse the name either. It is not necessary to repeat your dog’s name before every command if you already have his attention. Remember, the name means ‘look at me’ so if he is already attentive, there is no need to belabor the point. If you say your dog’s name and he doesn’t look at you, don’t continue to repeat the name endlessly that will just turn his name into white noise! Instead, wait for him to look at you while at the same time preventing him from doing anything else such as walking away or sniffing at something on the ground.

The most important thing to remember is to reward the free attention your dog gives you! There will be many times when your dog will look to you in a ‘did you see that?’ way. Use that to your advantage! Be aware when you are with your dog and reward/praise when he looks to you for direction. You can never have too much attention!

A good name response is the foundation for everything else that you will ever train your dog to do! You must be able to get your dog’s attention before he can respond to your direction. Once you have a dog who attends to your call, training will most definitely be easier!

The Economics of Energy

All dogs have energy but adolescent dogs have TONS!  I bet you already knew this!

Dogs must burn off all that energy either physically or mentally, specifically through their feet, mouths or brains.  When a dog isn’t stimulated in each of these areas daily and in an appropriate way, the energy will be expended in inappropriate ways.  It is a simple case of supply and demand.  Here are some suggestions on how to provide creative ‘demand’ for your dog’s seemingly endless supplies of energy!

  1. Feet (physical) – They need to RUN!  Walking, no matter how long or how far, just won’t cut it.  They really need some good cardio activity where they can burn off steam! Play fetch! Play chase! Get them swimming! Practice long-distance recalls! When their physical energy isn’t expended properly, your dog will move to the next form of physical exercise – using his mouth.  If your dog is gnawing on you or your furniture, it is a safe bet that they haven’t had enough exercise.
  2. Mouths (physical) – They need to CHEW!!!  Giving your dog appropriate chew toys like Kongs, bones, food puzzle toys, and the opportunity to play tug will help to direct their excess energy to an appropriate activity. Yes, I said ‘tug’.  This is a natural activity for dogs and gives them something to use their mouths on.  If your dog doesn’t get enough of the right things to use his mouth on, he will use it on you and on your stuff!
  3. Brains (mental) – Dogs have ‘INQUIRING MINDS’!  They like to figure things out.  Training (not just repetitive drilling but training that requires them to really think), playing (both with you and other dogs), exploring and hunting are things that keep dogs fascinated. Dogs that aren’t using their brains will make up games to keep themselves entertained, like ripping up sofa cushions, peeling paper off walls, or chewing the flooring! (For further ideas, see the blog entitled,‘Think About It’.)

So, if your dog is mouthy with you or your things, or ‘creatively’ keeping himself busy, then you must consider whether you have a balanced economic plan.  Exercise and mental stimulation are as essential to a healthy dog as food or water. Show your dog how to expend his energy appropriately and you will end his behavior problems!

How to Ruin Your ‘Recall’, Easily!

This sounds like a silly title for a dog training blog.  No trainer would ever want to teach you how to ruin your dog’s recall or ‘come’ cue!  The sad truth is though, that despite valiant attempts to teach human’s how to train this particular behavior, a perfectly good recall is ruined every ten seconds.  Ok, I made up that statistic, I guess it just seems like every 10 seconds!  Recalls always start out great! They work wonderfully for about 6 to 8 weeks, and then something happens…..


First, there are the many obvious ways that you can ruin a recall.  These are the ones that your trainer probably warned you about.

1. Call your dog to ‘come’ and then do something he doesn’t like: put him in the crate then go to work for the day, cut his nails or give him a bath. That will help him make the association that ‘come’ = bad thing.

2. Use ‘come’ when you are about to end a good time: play fetch but then call him to  ‘come’ so you can go inside and ignore him while you make dinner. That will help him learn that ‘come’ = end of fun.

3. Call your dog to come when you can’t enforce it or control the situation: call him when he is distracted at a distance with no leash on and you can’t get him quickly. That will teach him that ‘come’ = an option for consideration. I call this the ‘wishful thinking’ recall, the one where you are expecting your dog to perform a behavior you haven’t even taught yet (e.g., leaving a distraction).

Most people understand these three problem areas and try to avoid them.  So then, what eventually goes wrong?  Why do recalls get ruined so easily?  The answer is systematic over-use.  This is the lazy person’s route to dog training. They begin to use the word ‘come’ to mean other things, like stop poking in the trash, stop barking, don’t go in that room, or leave that (whatever) alone.  Whenever the person is too tired to actually train the dog, they call the dog to ‘come’.

When the dog hears ‘come’ ceaselessly throughout the day, and most of the time it doesn’t lead to anything important to the dog, he begins to learn that it is irrelevant. ‘Come’ should be something special, a wonderful and surprise event in your dog’s day!  It should never be reduced to a nagging, repeated duty.  ‘Come’ should mean run to me, something wonderful is about to happen!

If you don’t want to ruin your recall, use other words and train your dog for the varied behaviors you want performed.  For instance, if you want your dog to come in the house, train him to respond to the cue “let’s go in”.  If you want him to go in his crate, train him to respond to “kennel up”. If you want him to get out of the trash, train “leave-it”.

While ruining a good recall may be easy, it is much easier to maintain a good recall than to try and fix it once it has been damaged.  Keep it good, keep it controlled and keep it special and you will have a recall your dog always responds to!

Investing in a New Leash

Today I had a day off and spent it enjoying my dog.  On this day we didn’t practice our fancy agility moves, we didn’t work on our obedience skills, we learned no new tricks – we just took a nice relaxing walk in the woods; my little guy and me off on a little adventure of our very own.  We walked through the woods and along a stream; the leaves were just starting to fall.  We stopped and sat together on a little hillside, breathed in the fresh air and watched the water as it flowed past. It was simple and it was heaven.

As we walked, Nevar moved ahead, but never far away.  At about 15 feet, he would spin around and come back to me, a bright and happy smile on his face. I imagine that his smile was because of his sheer joy of being out in a place he likes, doing something he enjoys (which, for Nevar includes just about anywhere and anything!) with someone he loves. I know that those were the reasons I was smiling!

I have always used a long-line when Nevar and I hike.  I use it for safety, ‘just in case’. But I find that we don’t need that long-line anymore.  There really is no need for it. I don’t have to use it as a means to control him. As it turns out, our relationship is the only leash we now need.  A silent, invisible leash, that binds us to one another.

That invisible leash is the result of time well spent, training, playing, practicing, and even just being together on a sunny day.  It was an investment in his future and in mine too, and that investment is now paying dividends for both of us.  Despite his disability Nevar (who is deaf) is able to enjoy things that many other dogs can’t, and this time spent with him gives me such joy.

There is no shortcut to building a relationship.  You must commit to it, time, energy, love and a lot of yourself. Training is a big part of that. We could not enjoy the things we do without training.  On our hike, Nevar came back to me more times than I was able to keep track of.  That was the auto check-in that I taught him.  That little trick is an absolute necessity for us because we can’t communicate if he isn’t looking at me.

You can have a better relationship, a invisible leash, with your dog. What are you willing to investIMG_2965?  Will you teach him a new trick? Visit a new park?  Play a new game?  Try a new sport? Maybe just sit together on a hillside on a glorious afternoon?  The time you spend with your dog is a tribute to him.  Every second tells him he is special, that he is worth it. Be generous with the time you spend with your dog.  You will find the dividends far greater than the initial investment. It is the best leash you will ever buy.

“To sit with a dog on a hillside on a glorious afternoon is to be back in Eden, where doing nothing was not boring — it was peace.”

Milan Kundera

Recipe Ingredient #1 – Socialization!

DSCN0196I listed socialization as my first ingredient in the perfect puppy recipe, probably because it is the single most important thing that you can do for your puppy and your time to do it is limited. Socialization prepares your puppy for everything he will encounter during his life with you.  Unfortunately, there is a small window of opportunity to do this.  Your puppy can be easily socialized between the ages of 3 to 12 weeks but, once that window closes, socialization becomes more difficult.

Puppies that haven’t been exposed to a wide variety of good experiences, may have problems coping in new situations or with new things.  They may develop a fear of certain things or people and can even become aggressive.  Just exposing puppies to new things isn’t enough; the experiences must be pleasant.

Think socialize not traumatize! If the puppy is frightened and overwhelmed you are going in the wrong direction.  Watch your puppy for signs that he isn’t enjoying his socialization experience (i.e., any of the following: ears back, tail tucked, crouching, attempting to escape or hide, avoiding eye contact, yawning or showing the whites of the eye).  If you see any of these things either remove the puppy from the situation or make it easier by reducing the number of things he is seeing (people, animals) or increasing the distance between the puppy and the object he is nervous about.

Never try to force a scared puppy to do anything!  Encourage him and try to make whatever it is seem less scary instead.  You can feel free to comfort the puppy too.  That old adage about reinforcing fear is an impossibility.  When dogs (or people for that matter) are scared or in any emotional state, learning (which takes place in the pre-frontal cortex) is impaired by neurochemicals that prepare the body for fight or flight.

Your puppy must be exposed to people, places, things, sights, smells, sounds, and other animals (especially other dogs).  For each of these individual things, think variety!  For instance, how many different types of people can your puppy meet, and in how many different places? Tall people, short people, men with beards, people with floppy hats and mirrored sunglasses, people wearing helmets, and uniforms, etc., must all be part of the program. Take your puppy to visit the local police station or fire department.  Sit out in front of Starbucks with your puppy and coffee and see how many people you can meet!  Bring treats with you so that people can offer the puppy something yummy to sweeten the deal.

Do things at different times of the day and night. Walking in the neighborhood during the daylight is different than walking in the dark.  You may find that in the dark, that trashcan that went unnoticed earlier is suddenly your puppy’s boogeyman.  Sounds are important too, like blow dryers or vacuum cleaners.

Of course your puppy must also be able to get along with dogs and other puppies. Puppy kindergarten is an ideal place to socialize.  Young puppies should NOT go to dog parks. Remember that not all dogs are friendly and you should have plenty of information about the dog before you entrust them with your impressionable young friend. Its ok to say no if any dog your puppy is about to meet looks threatening or is overly excited (i.e., jumping, pulling, lunging) about seeing your puppy.

Get your puppy out and acquainted with the world!  Time is wasting!

Puppy Diaries #8 : Treats and E-fences

This is a great post regarding E-fences.  I am not a fan of them for all the reasons stated but I have committed to so many blogs, I don’t know when I’ll be writing about them!  Until then, this wonderful post will more than suffice.  I believe that there is no substitute for a good solid fence!

Puppy Diaries #8 : Treats and E-fences

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